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Tag: Aso Ebi

  • Nigeria’s flamboyant aso ebi dressing style is popular – but it’s become a financial burden

    Nigeria’s flamboyant aso ebi dressing style is popular – but it’s become a financial burden

    • By Susan Olubukola Badeji

    Aso ebi – “family uniform” – is the Yoruba custom of people dressing alike for social events. The custom is rooted in kinship (ebi), an important aspect of Yoruba social life since precolonial times in what’s now south-west Nigeria.

    Words like molebi (kinsmen) and olori ebi (head of the family) point to the importance of kinship in this culture. The saying eni to so ebi e nu, apo iya lo so ko literally translates as “whoever deserts his kinsmen straps on his/her shoulder a satchel of misfortune”. Aso ebi expresses these values visibly: uniform dressing is intended to reinforce unity and fraternity.

    Historically, Yoruba kinsmen wore the aso ebi – usually specially chosen fabrics – during celebrations for group identification.

    At first, inclusion and participation in uniform clothing for social events was restricted to blood relationship and mutual ancestry. As time went on, belonging to a group through uniform dressing extended beyond family circles.

    From the early 20th century, aso ebi became more about the need to communicate social worth. My interviews with some elderly people in Ibadan revealed that, during this period, it was referred to as ankoo (uniformity) or egbejoda (group uniform). Blood ties became a less important consideration for participation.

    Nowadays, aso ebi is a regular feature at social events like weddings, funerals, birthdays, conferments and political rallies across Nigeria.

    As a scholar of costume in theatre, I’ve always been fascinated by the aso ebi custom. In theatre, costume helps tell a story, among other functions, and aso ebi is also a costume in the performance of a social event.

    I wanted to know more about the modern aso ebi trends. Anecdotal evidence suggested that the practice was becoming something of a burden for some people. My research bore this out: I found that the financial burden of purchasing aso ebi was prominent among its perceived drawbacks and strengths alike.

    Aso ebi as costume

    In theatre and film, costume transforms actors into characters and depicts setting, culture, age and occupation. It tells the audience something about the character’s social class, economic worth and status in a hierarchy. Costume can project personal characteristics, deliberately or unwittingly. It can help depict relationships in a group.

    In daily life, too, clothes give us nonverbal clues about their wearers. They reveal age, mood, sex, culture, social status, religion, occupation, political affiliation and so on.

    Read Also: CAN president to Nigerians: don’t lose hope, preach peace, unity

    At social events, participants can be regarded as performers as well as audience members. Wearing aso ebi, participants are able to play premeditated or spontaneous roles.

    Modern trends

    In the last few decades, aso ebi has been embraced by other ethnic groups in Nigeria and the diaspora. The trend has extended beyond the geographical and social landscape of the Yoruba people.

    Part of the reason may be its propensity to add glamour and spectacle to events. But even more importantly, it may be due to its inclusion tendency, since it gives wearers a sense of involvement, seemingly excluding some non-wearers, thereby drawing social Lines at social events.

    It is common for guests to wear identical fabrics like wax prints (Ankara), lace, brocade and other materials to events.

    Planning and coordinating this wearing of uniforms at events has become quite a business. Usually, a celebrant chooses the fabric, determines the price and monopolises the sale to guests. Often the intention is to make a profit. Guests can’t haggle over the price and are expected to turn out in the fabric for the event, thereby creating the impression of solidarity and support for the celebrant.

    Affordability and social integration have become more significant considerations, pushing kinship to the back seat.

    Beyond the glamour, the distress

    Despite the popularity of aso ebi, my study found that it is causing some distress.

    I administered questionnaires to 270 Yoruba adults (135 men and 135 women) in Osun and Oyo states in south-western Nigeria, asking them about the challenges and merits of wearing aso ebi. Participants indicated whether they experienced any of a list of challenges such as cost, competition and issues of personal taste. The list of potential merits included boosting camaraderie and collective sense of purpose, and benefits to the producers of the uniforms.

    The results showed that the main problem with aso ebi was the financial burden of having to buy the fabrics continuously. This stems from being obliged to attend social events and the tendency for reciprocity: “I bought your aso ebi, buy mine.” People end up with a large stock of fabrics and are limited in their ability to buy, store and wear their own clothes.

    Another challenge is that buyers of aso ebi fabrics don’t have a choice or the option of bargaining, since it is non-negotiable. And the fabrics and uniforms are not always to the individual’s taste.

    Participants also felt that aso ebi encouraged unhealthy flamboyant competition.

    When they responded to the list of potential merits, they gave equal weight to aso ebi as a booster of social incorporation and cohesion, and as a source of economic value for individuals who make the fabrics.

    The practice has been commodified to the extent that cohesion, equality and social egalitarianism may be taking a back seat. Aso ebi is fast becoming a point of dissension, segregating wearers. It has a propensity to create social gulfs, distancing wearers and placing them on different tiers of the same ladder.

    However, according to my study findings, the benefits of aso ebi – like comradeship – still outweigh the challenges.

    • Badeji is Lecturer, Redeemer’s University, Ede. This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. “https://theconversation.com/nigerias-flamboyant-aso-ebi-dressing-style-is-popular-but-its-become-a-financial-burden-218174”

  • IJEBU: hints on new movie ‘Aso Ebi’

    ACTOR Olatayo Amokade aka Ijebu, has hinted that he will be releasing another movie titled ‘Aso Ebi.’

    The actor known for his local dialect ijebu, posted the picture of what to expect in the upcoming movie on Instagram. In the picture, the actor is seen dressed in Aso-Oke with headgear and a purse, posing like a lady.

    The actor had starred as a lady alongside Adedimeji Lateef in the movie, ‘Ise-Won’ by Nollywood Actress and producer, Tayo Sobola. He also acted like a lady in a movie titled ‘Abami Eda.’

    Ijebu’s movie, Jungunu, which was released last year was well-received and shown at the Film House Cinemas across the country.

  • Aso-ebi: Gate pass to social gatherings

    It has become a norm in our society for traditional, religious or social events to be attended by friends, relations and associates in special fabrix known as Aso ebi. The celebrator feels loved and appreciated when people attend his occasion in a special fabric meant for such event. BUSAYO ONIJALA examines the economic and social implications of Aso ebi as a trend.

    A popular Yoruba maxim says that the guest who does not wear uniform fabrics, popularly called Aso ebi will not eat at the social gathering the fabric is meant to celebrate.

    Aso ebi, usually worn by family members and friends at ceremonies, has, in contemporary times,  become the gate pass to social events such as weddings, burials, harvests, ordination of religious leaders, political rallies and campaigns in Nigeria. It gives a sense of belonging to those who adorn them during the events. It equally makes the celebrator to feel loved and important.

    According to Wikipedia, Aso ebi is a uniform-attire traditionally worn in Nigeria and in some other West African countries as an indicator of co-operation and solidarity during ceremonies and festive periods.  Aso ebi can be made with Ankara, Lace, ‘Aso oke’ (hand woven fabrics), Damask, George, `atiku’, `Senator’, and a host of other materials for both men and women.

    The prices of these fabrics range from N500 per pack to N150, 000 depending on the class, status and taste of the celebrator. They are mostly sewn in native blouse and wrapper/skirt or gown for women and native shirt and trousers/wrapper and even ‘agbada’ for men.

    Aso ebi adds beauty, colour and glamour and grandeur to events.

    Analysts note that guests who wear Aso ebi to social functions are usually believed to have directly or indirectly contributed to the success of such functions.

    They also argue that those determined to identify with a celebrator through adorning of Aso ebi often do not mind the quality or market value of the fabric.

    According to analysts, a guest who refuses to adorn Aso ebi may receive cold reception, especially from ushers at the event no matter how highly placed or influential he may be.

    Thus, most guests purchase Aso ebi and appear in them on the day of the events, whether convenient or not, just to fulfill all righteousness, since they are not likely to wear them after that day.

    It is also believed that some people regard purchasing of these outfits as an opportunity to acquire more clothes as they may not have the time to go to markets to buy fabrics.

    A fashion designer, Mrs Seun Olujide, said an average of 10 ladies send Aso ebi to her shop for sewing weekly because of one event or the other.

    “This keeps us busy, helps us to hone our designing skills, and deepens our mastery of the art while we make a living from it.

    “When our clients wear their fabrics, it gives them a sense of belonging when they get to the event venue because no one likes to feel left out. We are also fulfilled as fashion designers when our clients bring us commendation from their friends and admirers about our works.

    “Personally, when I attend a wedding adorned in the Aso ebi fabric, it increases my confidence. I don’t feel like outcast or someone who does not want to support her friend or family member,” she said.

    Mr Ojo Ogidi, however, reveals that some people exploit Aso ebi buyers by selling to them at high prices, noting that this makes such people unable to sell more packs of  Aso ebi because some intending buyers would have carried out market survey and observed the exploitation.

    “To beat such pranks, two or more potential buyers will jointly buy just a set, instead of the individuals buying a set each,’’ he said.

    A civil servant, Mrs Funmi Ajayi, said she teamed up with four others and bought a set of lace materials for a wedding which the event host sold at a skyrocketing price.

    “We decided to buy a set and share it among ourselves. Each of us gave to our fashion designer who combined it with other matching fabrics and sewed.

    “Our host gave us a single gift which we gave to the oldest among us. By doing so, we contributed to the success of the wedding and were accorded the same recognition at the reception as others who bought and wore the full set of the lace material,’’ Ajayi said.

    Mrs Boluwatife Alabi of April Fabrics, Lagos is of the opinion that an event without Aso ebi is incomplete.

    “What is a wedding without the Aso ebi ladies? What is a celebration of life without friends and family members cladding in Aso ebi of various materials and styles?

    “I make it a point of duty to select the best fabrics for my clients because the more colourful the fabrics, the more colourful the event will be,’’ the fabrics seller stated.

    She explained that Aso ebi sellers add a little amount to the market price of the fabrics to cover the cost of souvenirs to be given to guests.

    “I am aware of instances where certain amount is added to the cost price by organisers, but that is to cover for the cost of souvenirs that will be distributed to guests during the function.”

    A student, Miss Itunu Asamany, believes that ‘Aso ebi’ is vital to social functions as it serves as a means of identification with age mates, relatives, groups or friends.

    “It always makes such events beautiful, colourful and well organised. The bride, during her wedding, will be able to identify her friends and close relatives by what they wear,’’ she said.

    Asamany, however, condemns charging of outrageous prices for ‘Aso ebi’ by some celebrators. She is convinced that the high prices are exploitative and can discourage many potential `aso-ebi’ buyers.

    “Some people go as far as adding 30 per cent of the cost price to the selling price; this is not fair at all.

    “I won’t break a bank to please my friend. If the selling price of the ‘Aso ebi’ is beyond my budget, I will not buy it but go for what is within my power.”

    However, a trader, Mr Koko Adeola, has a different view. He said he will not mind spending a huge amount of money on ‘Aso ebi’ for close friends but won’t bother doing so for an acquaintance.

    “I will not buy an expensive “Aso ebi’’ from someone who is just an acquaintance. The level of relationship I have with you will determine whether I will attend your function in `Aso ebi’. A major advantage of ‘Aso ebi’ is that it helps to identify invited guests from those who gate-crashed,’’ he says.

    He observes that ‘Aso ebi’ is less expensive for men. ”Men are lucky when it comes to buying ‘Aso ebi’ because, many times, all they need to buy is just the cap which may not cost more than N500.’’

    A businesswoman, Ada Mbah, is worried that ‘Aso ebi’ can breed unhealthy rivalry between families, especially, during entertainment and sharing of gifts at events.

    “Why should the family and friends of the groom be refused food and drinks because they are wearing a different fabric (`Aso ebi’) from those of the bride?

    “I attended an event without wearing the ‘Aso ebi’ and I was told that only people with the uniform would be entertained and given gifts.

    “I was embarrassed because I bought the fabric but did not wear it to that particular occasion. I really felt bad because I was addressed very rudely and treated like outcast.

    Mbah’s friend, Deborah Ige, is of the opinion that a guest can still be treated badly even when wearing Aso ebi. She recalls when she was ignored during entertainment at a ceremony even with her ‘Aso ebi’.

    “I bought the fabric for the event, but when it was time for entertainment, I only got a bottle of water.’’

    According to her, getting the required attention during social gatherings with or without ‘Aso ebi’ will depend on planning.

    “There are instances where the population of the guests is more than what the host has budgeted for; he or she will resort to rationing foods and drinks,’’ she argues.

    A marketer,  Mr Joseph Omojola,  is of the opinion that since ‘Aso ebi’ has become the trending gate pass to events whether secular or religious, there is the need for more security consciousness to ensure that criminal elements do not disguise as family members or friends by wearing the ‘Aso ebi’.

    Analysts are convinced that wearing ‘Aso ebi’ is a major way of promoting African culture, and if well managed, will reduce foreign influence on Africans’ dressing.

    They suggest that African governments should do more to promote local production of the indigenous fabrics at affordable costs and consider using them for school uniforms and office wears on certain days of the week.

    • Busayo Onijala is of the News Agency of Nigeria (NAN)
  • Nigerian women, Owanbe and Aso Ebi

    Nigerian women, Owanbe and Aso Ebi

    Owanbe in Nigeria is something that can never be overemphasized.

    This is because, despite the fact that it is an expensive celebration, it comes with loads of happiness and merriment, this is why some would do everything in their power to make it worthwhile.

    Ówànbę is a Yoruba word gotten from the sequence Ó-wà-ní-ibę which literally means “it is here”, but the connotative meaning is “the party is happening here”.

    Customarily, when a Nigerian mentions “Owanbe”, such person is referring to a typical Yoruba party, but now most people use the term Owanbe to generally describe Nigerian parties- regardless of the tribe or ethnic group.

    Common types of Owanbe includes wedding parties, birthday parties, retirement parties, coronation ceremonies, celebration of life (burial for old people), and so on.

    One interesting thing about an Owanbe is the Aso Ebí (uniformed clothing).

    When the date for an Owanbe is fixed, the celebrant will sell a fabric (native) with matching headgear that has been picked; everyone attending that event is meant to wear it- this cloth is called the Aso Ebi.

    It is so easy to point out friends and families of the host at the venue of the party.

    This is because you would always find them dressed in the Aso Ebi.

    It could either be lace, George or an Ankara fabric.

    The women are the ones that daze us with various extravagant styles of the Aso Ebi that are often posted on Instagram and published in fashion magazines.

    Usually, the tribe of the celebrant determines the kind of Aso Ebi. For instance if it’s an Igbo wedding, the Aso Ebi will be: a George wrapper and a blouse with the normal headgear (Sego), but if it’s a Yoruba wedding, we’ll have lace and Aso Ofi head gear grace the occasion.

    At a typical Owanbe, you would find women slaying in their beautiful outfits, men in Atiku, enough food, drinks and souvenirs for everyone,

    people spraying money, a Disk Jockey ( DJ ) and a live band to entertain people with music.

    Nigerian women and Owanbe are inseparable, except of course, when the world has finally come to an end.

    However, what some people have failed to realize is that an Owanbe does not have to be so elaborate for people to attend.

    Owanbe is meant for people to celebrate and make merry, it should not seem like a competition.

    Whether it is a big party or not, everyone is meant to be happy

    and it is an avenue to meet distant relatives and highly recognized dignitaries.

  • Much ado about aso ebi

    Much ado about aso ebi

    ASO ebi, a cultural trend started by the Yoruba, has steadily gained popularity and has spread across all cultures. These days, we cannot deny the aesthetic value aso ebi gives every ‘owambe’ – no party is ever complete without them.  Nigerian parties are a symphony created by the colours and fabric picked out for the occasion and there is always the case of guests trying to outdo each other with different styles that dare to upstage that of the bride and groom. As far as aso ebi is concerned, more is more. All rules of not outshining the bride are downed with the free liquor served.

    The aso ebi craze is so palpable that not buying it can determine your entrance into the venue, your inclusion in group photos, whether you’ll eat or starve at the event and, of course, whether the juicy souvenirs will come your way.

    As if the organisers make it on guests, the price of a lace fabric that costs 20,000 naira in Balogun Market is sold it to their guests for 50,000 naira.  You wonder how people can afford to buy as many as they do with the current economic crisis.  It almost seems as if buying aso ebi has become an unwritten statement issued by the organiser to mean, “Contribute towards my wedding or risk being treated like an outcast.” Could this be a reason for the reduction in the number of gifts presented to the bride and groom at ceremonies because the guests feel that after all their contribution towards the success of the wedding has been counted by purchasing the much-coveted aso-ebi?

    However, we are forced to admit that this pocket-draining culture adds colour and life to many occasions, especially weddings, and has come to be known as one of the beauties of the African culture.

    Organising an event soon and looking for aso ebi combinations? Here are a few ideas to look at.

  • ’Aso Ebi’ for Obama

    Lest I forget, we have to mark this victory of our ‘son’ who has been given another shot to lead the world in a big way during his inauguration in January. Towards this, we have organised a lot of activities, including performances by different masquerades that will entertain at the occasion. The fuel subsidy thieves and the beneficiaries of the scam are not left out as they are expected to cough up part of their ill-gotten wealth that our government has the wisdom but lacks the courage to collect from them.

    Yours sincerely is in close contact with President Obama’s kith and kin in Kenya and I can authoritatively tell you that I have the mandate as their sole representative in Nigeria to collect money for the ‘Aso Ebi’ (identical dress). If you are interested (as I guess you must be), please send the money ($500 only) for the dress to this account: Bank 419, account name: Pro-Fraud Monsters, account number 000419. Limited stock available; so pay now to avoid the last minute rush! Only those wearing the ‘Aso Ebi’ will be admitted into the venue of the inauguration. And, please, don’t allow yourself to be conned; ignore others who may purport to be rendering the same selfless service for ‘our son’. Yours sincerely is the only accredited person given that franchise in Nigeria. See you there!