By EFUA CLAIRE JOBI-TAIWO
Oyewale Oyelami is well recognized for his consistency in fashion design, and this transcends his success in heading his creative brand, Bernanjo Couture. A garment constructor with skills in pattern-making and illustration, he is recognized for his ability to merge tradition with modern tailoring. Ethni-Afro-City is another interesting showcase of his abilities. The collection juxtaposes Ankara’s bold, cultural appeal with streamlined fits.
Among the collection outfits is the two-piece Ankara outfit featuring tailored trousers paired with short-sleeved jackets. The jackets boast narrow lapels, a singular button closure, and a quiet but elegant form. The proportions of the lapels, the placement of the lone button, and the precision in seam allowances highlight Oyewale’s meticulous attention to points of measure (POMs). The trousers, expertly crafted, offer an ideal balance of ease and structure, accommodating movement while maintaining a sleek form. The white shirts in the collection are elevated from just regular shirts to creative pieces as well. They possess a breast pocket framed by Ankara fabric. The pocket’s top edge and the shirt’s upper front face add ethnic charm, showcasing an innovative use of trims. The harmonious blending of the classic white cotton shirt with Ankara accents exemplifies Oyewale’s prowess in construction and fabric manipulation.
Finally, the Ankara shorts with side pockets serve as a functional addition. However, the absence of unique design details, such as textured trims, leaves the shorts feeling a little incomplete. The stitch quality across most garments is consistent, indicating a strong foundation in garment construction. However, there were missed opportunities to showcase advanced techniques. For instance, the seam allowances across all the garments are standard, but adding French seams could have elevated the durability of the garments. The interplay absence between textures limits the visual and tailoring interest of the garments. Pairing Ankara with subtle jacquard or lightweight denim could have expanded the collection’s appeal and highlighted Oyewale’s pattern-making skills more effectively.
While the Ethni-Afro-City achieves a commendable balance between traditional and contemporary styles, areas for improvement exist. Experimenting with alternative button placements or incorporating concealed fastenings might introduce subtle innovation without compromising elegance. This collection is likely to resonate with style-conscious professionals and cultural enthusiasts who value a blend of culture in all they wear. The white shirts with Ankara accents, in particular, have broad commercial appeal due to their versatility. The tailored trousers and jackets, while less adaptable for casual settings, cater to a niche audience seeking statement pieces for events or semi-formal occasions. The minimalist yet culturally resonant designs add depth to Oyewale’s portfolio, demonstrating his ability to innovate within traditional frameworks. This collection does not necessarily push boundaries but it succeeds in its safe interpretations of tradition.