OLAYINKA OYEGBILE, who recently travelled to Brazil writes on his impression of Rio de Janeiro
I ALWAYS love to arrive any country I am travelling to by air at night. This is because I believe that is the best time to judge how welcoming a country is. I love to sit by the window of the aircraft, pull down the shutters and look down from the sky as the pilot announces the descent and directs all to have their seats and prepare for landing.
My ears are always ready to hear the pilot saying, “Fasten your seat belts, lights are on. All passengers are advised to return to their seats and fasten their seat belts. Cabin crew should prepare for landing,” or something close to those words.
On hearing these words, I always move closer to the window, if by chance I am not the one with the window seat. But thank God I have the window seat on this day. I remember I once had an argument with another passenger who sat by the window and insisted she loves to pull down the shutters whenever she flies and the aircraft wants to land. According to her, she was always in apprehension on seeing the aircraft descending. I protested and told her to let us change seats or in the alternative she should pull the shutter up and close her eyes or pretend to be sleeping.
Luckily on this flight into Rio de Janeiro, on this day, I have the window seat, so I do not have to argue with anyone. But this flight was a morning one, not my favourite night landing. Landing in the night always have for me an extra fun, especially when arriving in a city with beautiful lightings. The flush of lights in different blend of colours always serves as therapy from the long flight. It always assures me that I am landing in a city or a country that is a far cry from my homeland, where approaching the airport or landing at night is filled with mixed feelings; looking down from the aircraft only to see pitch darkness with only a handful of lights due to the lack of electricity!
Arriving at Rio de Janeiro on this morning denied me of that fun. However, it was not devoid of its own excitement which I would perhaps have missed if we had landed at night! I looked out of the window and what I saw amazed me. We were flying first over an amazing stretch of jungles which that the country is famous for. A few minutes later, the aircraft began to hover over a long stretch of water and my heart began to skip. I began to wonder why he is flying and hovering above such a long stretch of water when he had already announced that we should prepare for landing. Is he going to land on water? Or has he lost his way? Is he trying to look for a ‘soft landing’? I looked around me and no one looks disturbed. Why should I? Then the descent began. I was still in awe but determined to see how it would end, and a short while later we landed successfully, not on the full stretch of water!
I later learnt that the airport is located at the edge of Galeao Beach on Governador Island, which in 1923 was founded as a School of Naval Aviation. It later became an Air Force base before its current status as an international airport. It had also served other purposes such as serving as an aerodrome used by the Allied Forces for military operations in 1942 and during World War II.
THE disembarkation processes, clearing customs and immigration were quick and without hassles as all the officials with their smattering English and their faces full of smiles welcomed us. There were no unnecessary questions. As you proceed to the exit wondering whether there was any of the organisers of the conference you have come to attend around to welcome you, you cast a look around and cannot see anyone bearing any placard with either your name, conference or hotel, waiting. Realising you have to find your way to your hotel on your own, you heaved a sigh and remember that the orgainisers have warned you not to patronise any public transport! So, what do you do? Before you could make up your mind, a coterie of men swamp around you, shouting “Taxi, taxi, taxi.” It reminds you of Lagos airport cab drivers, although they are not as desperate.
Now you are wondering what to make of the warning that you should steer clear of public transport. A few seconds after, you thank your stars that you arrived in the morning. And as a street-wise Lagosian and a Nigerian to boot, you shake your head and say no one can “dull a Lagos boy.” You then approach one of the numerous counters advertising taxi services. At least you can be sure that registered taxi companies in the airport should be relatively safe. You approach the counter and mutter greetings in English. The lady behind the counter looks at you, apparently not understanding you. She does not speak English and you don’t speak either Portuguese or any of the Brazilian languages. At last she asks you a question which you don’t understand, but since you heard the word “taxi” you know she’s asking if you are in need of one.
“Yes,” I replied and showed her the name of the hotel. She writes a receipt and hands it to you and an assistant materialises from nowhere to help with your only bag to the section for ground transportation.
The assistant tries to engage you in a conversation and you both draw a blank due to a lack of understanding of each other’s language. He, however, struggles to ask “You, from w…here…?” Somehow you understand that he is asking where you came from.
“Nigeria,” I replied.
Instantly, his face brightens up and he looks at you as if you are a long lost uncle and quips: “Ni-ge-ria..? Ha…Oko….cha, Ka….nu…” and he begins to reel out names of Nigerian football stars, some of whom you do not know. Then he says “Oh, Ni-ge-ria…come Brazil World Cup…good…good,” he continues to wax lyrical as he guides you towards the taxi terminal. All this while, you follow him and look around bearing in mind the warnings of the organisers. Soon, it is your turn and a fairly elderly man is assigned to drive you to your hotel. At this point I told myself that the organisers’ warning was no longer necessary: it is daytime and an elderly man is to chauffeur me, I felt how such a man will outwit me. I settle down to enjoy the drive.
There is no way we can communicate because as hard as I try to engage him in conversation I discover that it is a brick wall because both of us have language barrier. I decided to just enjoy the cool breeze of the air conditioner, the scenic beauty of Rio and the smooth ride. Some forty or so minutes after, we arrive in my hotel. A beautiful hotel with the beach overlooking it.
A city to behold
Rio de Janeiro is a city with many sides to it. The first thing most people would perhaps remember about the city is the world popular Rio Carnival. In the 70s and 80s, Mr Muyiwa Adetiba of The Punch and later Vanguard used to attend the event and do beautiful reports about it. The thrill and glamour of this festival is still there and present on the streets. Moving round the streets and most especially the beaches one sees that most of the women are in the state of “undress” (apologies to the masked one Lagbaja). The manner of their dressing would tempt the holiest of men. To think that the country has one of the largest Catholic population in the world!
It is also perhaps one of the most religiously tolerant nations in the world with all sorts of religious persuasions. It has on its list the hosting of the LGBT events. In fact, on the Saturday I was there, “a world event of Gays and Lesbians meeting” was held at the long stretch of the beach not far from my hotel. It was a big event that caused a huge traffic snarl in the Copacabana area of the city. According to Rio Guide, a publication of the Tourism Ministry, the gay movement has reached its peak in Rio. “Since 1995, Copacabana beach is annually visited by thousands of members and supporters to celebrate the gay cause. The theme for the 18th edition of LGBT Parade in Rio de Janeiro is “Justice is blind, we are all equal before the law believe it and demand it.” This is a serious, yet colourful and fun event, which takes over Rio’s water front demanding equal rights and more tolerance. The publication adds, “Rio has been recognised as the best gay destination in the world, beating other cities to the podium.”
However, Rio is not only about its sybaritic lifestyle of sex, food, drinks and fun. It is a city full of history and mementoes that could keep one engaged for months. No wonder the government has made a huge capital out of it to develop its roads and infrastructure to entice tourists and fun lovers to bring their money and have the fun of their lives. Its “parks and forest are the city’s hidden treasures. Wherever you go in Rio, jungle clad mountains are the backdrops. They’re mould into which the city is sprinkled,” it proclaims.
Some of the high-rise buildings are built directly into the mountains, making one wonder whether they are not afraid of landslide, volcanic eruption or any natural land disaster linked to rocks. Some citizens say the rocks and mountains have become part of their lives and see no reason to fear them! Hence they build into them.
Perhaps the most talked-about and world famous tourist attractions in the city is the duo of Pao de Acurar, otherwise known as Sugar Loaf Mountain and Corcovado or statue of Christ the Redeemer. Getting to the Sugar Loaf Mountain is by cable car which travels some 575 metres from Praia Vermelha through a height of 220 metres above sea level. It is a heart-thumping experience that anyone without a strong heart should never attempt to undertake unless with all eyes closed. The cable car makes its slow ascension up the hill with a deliberate slow speed to allow tourist savour the beauty of the scenery; it is heavenly and at the same time frightening. The trip is in two legs as the cable car covers 750 metres on its second leg to the top of the Sugar loaf Mountain with the height of 396 metres.
Tourists who are afraid of travelling in the cable car have the alternative of flying by helicopter but this is expensive. The helicopter lands on a helipad on the mountain.
The second is the Corcovado which houses the statue of Christ the Redeemer. According to the Rio Guide, “The statue, the most famous Art Déco sculpture in the world, began to be planned in 1921 and was developed by engineer Heitor da Silva Costa. The drawings were taken to France by Polish sculptor Paul Landowski. It is located at the Tijuca National 710 metres high and giving a sweeping panorama of sea and mountain, a world famous vista. The mountain is crowned by the statue of Christ the Redeemer, 30 metres high with an eight metre pedestal with a chapel to honour our Lady of Aparecida, patron Saint of Brazil.”
This is perhaps the most visited site in Brazil because of its religious significance and the height of the statue. On top of the two mountains, tourists can have a kaleidoscopic view of the city of Brazil with skyscrapers stretching along its coasts and gleaming in the afternoon sun.
There are so many places to visit in Rio de Janeiro that a tourist with a month-long vacation to while away would not have a dull moment. I could not venture into the traditional city to see the old Brazilian architecture such as we have on Lagos Island. However, one could see the link.
Lessons from Rio
Brazil has ably demonstrated that a country can make a lot out of its rich fauna and natural resources. Its beach lines are so neat and well developed that small industries and shops line its beaches, making good and quick fortunes from the strings of tourists who flock there on a daily basis. Nigeria can learn a lot from this by developing its beaches and making sure roads, security and infrastructure are put in place to make the country attractive not only to investors but to tourists.
Finally, as the Rio Guide says, “Rio belongs to its monkeys and toucans, its parrots and sloths, its orchid and alligators, just as much as it does to its human population.” Rio is worth several visits if only for the neatness and creativity that have been brought to its beaches. No wonder, it is officially called the country’s Wonderful City. It is no doubt a city of many wonders.
