The annual Igogo festival which showcases the culture and tradition of the ancient town of Owo was held last week, Taiwo Abiodun was there
It is like the carcass of an elephant. It means different things to different people. Some call it a festival of love, others the Queen’s festival, while a few others call it festival of unity. But whatever it is called one thing that is certain is that it is a festival. This is because it is the only unifying festival that brings men and women together irrespective of their differences and political affiliations. It is called Igogo Festival and it is over 500 years old.
Welcome to Owo, Ondo State. In celebration of the festival last week, the town was ‘painted red’. It was agog as all the citizens, old and young, male and females, set aside their political differences to dance round the town exchanging greetings and showering gifts on one another. Children, youths and elders were all ‘armed’ with long sticks painted in different colours. The sticks were used to replace leather drums as they were hitting them on the ground to produce sound in replacement of drums (drumming is forbidden during this period) and singing all kinds of songs.
The male chiefs who were also participants could erroneously be mistaken for women when seen from afar off, seeing their protruding buttocks and false breasts padded with foams and the earrings dangling from their ears. As part of the festival, they are compelled to dress like women, wearing blouses, skirts, earrings, necklaces and brassieres. Not only that, they either plait their hair or braid them or wear wigs on their bald heads!
Irrespective of their age and gender, they all danced along, and wriggled their waists while the beads on their necks, legs and wrists dangled along producing melodious sounds. It is held every year and full of fun. “Imagine my look, am I not a woman?”, one of the celebrators asked as he ran forward, backward and sideways, then wriggled his waist while showing the spectators his earrings and other materials adorning his body in his woman apparel.
This festival is held every year no matter the condition. It must not be missed except on a rare occasion such as if there is no monarch.
Royal strides
The Olowo of Owo, Oba David Victor Folagbade Olateru- Olagbegi, the chief celebrator stepped out, shielded by his chiefs as he walked regally under a beautiful large umbrella to protect him from the scorching sun. Dressed in his traditional ewu okun beads regalia, a traditional sword called uda omalore was dangling beneath his big ‘skirt’. The monarch’s head was decorated with a beautiful feather called urere okin. His two outstretched hands and ankles were wrapped with special coral beads specially meant for his status as a king. The golden ring on his finger shone as he danced toward the King’s market (Oja Oba). With the palace praise singers screaming at top of their voices saluting him in royal way saying ‘ Oologho, Baba O,!!!, Wa a rehin odi (Our monarch, may you conquer your enemies) while the deafening ‘Aaaaase’ followed, as they sang his praises. Men and women who are friends, supporters, well wishers and all accompanied by the monarch’s family members were not left behind coupled with the retinue of his chiefs who were all in white apparels as they too had their hair plaited as they clanged on their iron gongs, singing songs of love and joy. As the monarch rendered a soul searching philosophical and thought provoking traditional songs in Owo dialect singing “Gbaragada alagemo e me i seran obe, e fo un Ogho d’oluwa tu wa se o” (Chameleon is not edible, warn ‘them’ to behave), he the song others joined the chorus, rendered singings and dancing along with him. In all, he rendered seven songs in the market place as is the custom. Later, he prayed for the progress of the town while the people, both the old and the young, went into frenzy, hailing and praising him to high heavens. In response, he smiled and waved to them in appreciation of their presence.
Those who could not see him climbed to the tree top to have a limpse of him! It was indeed the radiance of a king.
The festival which started over 500 years ago during the reign of Oba Rengenjen, who unknowingly married a beautiful woman, Oronsen, who was not an ordinary woman; she possessed a supernatural power. According to history, the monarch fell in love with this strange woman and kept her in the palace. He was so much in love with her that other wives became jealous of their love. However, Oronsen was said to have made the monarch wealthy by using her supernatural power to defecate expensive coral beads, but this, was only to the knowledge of her husband!
Due to this the town became highly prosperous and popular. Later, out of envy, other wives, however, became more jealous and were in search of how to cause disaffection between the two lovebirds. Her taboo was that okra should never be mixed in her in her presence, nor firewood be thrown, and above all no water should be splashed before her! All these taboos were kept under wraps by the monarch while he warned his household never to try any of these.
The story went on that, until one day when one of the wives got the husband drunk and was made to divulge the secret. One day, the monarch went out on an for hunting expedition while the other wives conspired against the wife and broke the taboos: they splashed water on the ground, threw firewood and mixed okra in her presence. The woman, sensing danger, and having discovered their conspiracy, fled the palace and ran for cover in a thick forest!
But when her husband, the monarch returned and was briefed about what had transpired in his absence, he was annoyed. He, however, made frantic effort to bring her back and therefore, instructed the palace guards known as the Iloros, ayoyos to trace her out. Alas, it was only her scarf that was discovered along the Ulaja groove. This material was brought back home with long canes to discipline the other wives who perpetrated this ignoble act.
Several efforts were made to locate her but all to no avail. But her voice was always heard weeping for losing such a lovely husband. Her crying was heard but she was not seen. In return for her love, she instructed the monarch to be celebrating her every year to get the town to progress.
During the Igogo Festival, there should be no booming of guns, men and women must not wear caps and headgears, while no drums should be beaten. Wooden sticks and iron metal gongs are used in place of drums, while different songs are sung during this occasion.
High Chief Ola Osenenpen, who was also dressed in woman’s clothes while speaking about the festival said “Nobody should miss the festival, it is a sign of showing love and honouring the king who is the chief celebrator at the festival. I am about 69years and since I became a chief 25 years ago, I have never missed the festival”. On the costs implication, Osenenpen said it cost him much, “I buy drinks and food for my visitors. In fact, I spend about N500,000.This is our own festival.”
Chief Christianah Famulagun,91, the Obanuwa of Owo kingdom described the festival as a huge success despite the fact that she had become old and cannot go out again. She as a result of old age could not go out to join the dance but she observed it from her home. The septuagenarian in spite of her inability to walk, dressed in her own regalia decorated with beads and sang songs. According to her, she has never missed the festival since her enthronement adding that whoever does not celebrate the festival is assumed to be the monarch’s enemy.
The Olowo of Owo said the festival is part of the town’s culture and tradition. “Though I am a staunch Christian and traditional royal title holder but we have the chief priest, Chief Adelanke who is the custodian of the town’s rites and rituals” He, however, denied that he has a plan to abolish or abandon the festival. “This is culture and there is a difference between culture and religion,” he said.
Mrs. Akinola Grace Olajumoke, Assistant Chief Museum Education Officer, Owo, described the festival as a good one that can boost the economic power of the town. This is because “during this festival a lot of things are sold like ornamental beads, wigs, socks, and women attires. It is one of the richest festivals in Yorubaland.”
Tunde Onibode appealed to both the state and federal government to come to the support of the festival, saying this is another tourist attraction Festival. Owo is well- known in Yorubaland.
