Adeola Ogunlade, who recently visited Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, writes on his impressions of the city that has served as headquarters of the Organisation of Africa Unity (OAU) and its successor Africa Union (AU).
ETHIOPIA has a rich history; early civilizations, old architecture, and unique culture.
Addis Ababa was ‘discovered’ in 1889 by the wife of Emperor Menilik II, Queen Taitu Betul, and she encouraged her husband to settle there. Betuk, was a war strategist who supported her husband in the fight against colonization by the Italian government in 1936.
It is a city filled with a tapestry of so many stories of the modern day. Ethiopia is the only country on the continent that was not colonized by any Western power thus it is a melting point of that historical feat.
Although, I had been inundated lots of negative stereotype andwas thus cautious as I moved round the ancient city, but to my amazement, right from the Bole Airport into Arakilo to Pissaare to Addis Central Business City, Old market area of Arada at the northern end of Church hill toward the Addis Ababa University, the people were welcoming; the smiles, warmth and show of hospitality was worthy of commendation. I met one of the receptionists at the airport who gave me a bottle of water as we waited for our vehicle to convey us to the hotel. The airport is beautifully designed to accommodate thousands of people moving in and out of the country whether for business, politics or as tourists.
The airport workers are always on ground and willing to answer any questions from passengers without asking for a bribe or tips except you give voluntarily. With Addis Ababa situated at the foothills of the 3,000 meters Entoto Mountains and rambles pleasantly across many wooded hillsides and gullies cutting through with fast flowing streams, the weather is hot. Due to this water is a gift you should be ready to give to your neighbour. At the hotel, the receptionists were very welcoming and kind to everyone irrespective of nationality. For many nationals who could not roam their phones, there was a provision at the reception to call. I remember, most times, I called my wife, one of the receptionists who was always with a smiling face said to me “yes, I like that, you are married, calling your wife is very important. I also have a guy that used to call me and he tells me he loves and he wants to marry me and we are planning to do our wedding soon” and I replied with a smile encouraging her to pray and trust God for a blissful union.
The city is also littered with a lot of movie theatres that have spanned 50-60 years.
A conservative people
Although, the city has over 112 embassies which make it the fourth largest with embassies in the world; coupled with the fact that the headquarters of the Africa Union, United Nations, Economic Commission for Africa, Africa Development Bank, World Bank and other world bodies are situated in the county, one would want to think that the country will be very flamboyant in its spending and outlook. But the reverse is the case. The gap between the rich and poor is not so wide because going through the city centre; the rich and the poor live together. More surprising is the fact that even with security men around, public buses pass through the Prime Minister’s Palace to go to their different destinations. Although, the poverty level of the people is high as beggars with haggard clothes are found on the streets, car parks, public places, churches, and market places like most African countries, the people have a sense of belonging toward the needy. People cook food and distribute to the needy and beggars on the streets.
It is not news that Ethiopians girls are beautiful, if not one the most beautiful species God created in Africa, the fact is that they always dress decently. You can see that culture of decency in them which stands them out. Majority of the people are Catholics and Judaist which obviously affect their way of life and worship; the people tend to live decently. Their actions, words and dressing tend to be very decent and simple even within the corporate circles. I was however amazed when some prostitutes accosted me and two other new found friends who were missionaries from Nigeria, they were decently dressed and stood by the road side in a corner at about 11:00pm seeking patrons among passersby for sex. Addis Ababa is also unique and very apt on road safety tips; at every junction, there are traffic signs for motorists and the road users. Motorists are liable to 14 years prison term for knocking down a road user using the Zebra crossings which are visible on major streets and highways.
The country survives largely on food export, tourism and the Africa Union which provides 30% of its annual GDP, but it has become a strong voice within the East Africa Community as neighboring countries have at one point or the other sought refuge there during war time in countries such as Eritrea, Kenya, Sudan, South Sudan among others. Ethiopia is no doubt a police state.
Menilik’s Palace
I visited the first palace which was built by 1886 by Menilik II, the then Emperor of Ethiopia is located at the north east of Churchill Avenue at the end of Colsen and later donated to Addis Ababa University as the University Museum. The museum has different works of arts, paintings, artifacts about the works, bedroom, instruments of war, clothes of the emperor, his gold wristwatch, and other old artifacts. It was built with clay and wood on a two storey building. Entry into the Museum was the Library that has different genre of books on culture, history, science, religion, anthropology, and painting among others. There was a big drum used in 1918 which has two long thick sticks used to gather the people for war. Also, their major food called Njiera was also drawn in a painting that shows how the national food is cooked and served in the palace. There was an image of the Lion of Judah carved alive at the Museum that was preserved by the Emperor and its looks so fresh.
A visit to the bedroom of the emperor which was built with silver made elements with an inscription on the tip of the bed written in Aramaic language. Beside the bed was a chair, table and a small box where he kept his money while alive. On the table were scores of stamps scripted in Ethiopian language, an ancient clock. The bathroom was made with modern equipments and mirror.
Visit to 2000 Habesha Traditional Restaurant
This is one of the oldest restaurants with a tasty blend of authentic Ethiopian cuisines and traditional entertainment to awaken the soul. It is a restaurant patronized by most of the foreigners visiting Addis Ababa as it provides a refreshing change to both international tourists and local diners. Customers are served with high spirited professional musicians; the folkloric band inspires and motivates the audience to dance along. From South Africa to North, Central and West Africa, traditional choice songs are sung to the admiration of the audience. What surprises me was that Sudan with its long history of war, unrest and wanton destruction of lives and properties has lovely songs that were inspiring. It really made me sober that amidst our trying moments in Africa, we have a lot within to cheer ourselves. People from diverse cultures, race and ethnic backgrounds were in attendance as the audience danced to songs from their countries. About 20 countries were represented at the restaurant and every one could relate with their songs. The band used five traditional instruments which are drums, Keras, Washeuet, Keboio, Maspuko. They are made in Ethiopia. They are age long instruments that span two centuries and the people resonate with the sounds and melody that comes out of them. The sounds of the instruments are just as melodious as the sounds from contemporary instruments.
Amidst the fun, use of incense which is very predominant in many parts of Addis Ababa even in shops, supermarkets, offices which have become a ritual were positioned at the entrance to welcome everyone. A performance and development experts from Kenya, Mshai Mwangola said “Ethiopians have very much to do with smell and shops and public places incense are made. It is a whole bowl as incense is made with coffee, pop-corn alongside for the audience”. There were also free wines for individuals and group that participate actively in the fun filled event. The restaurants are set in warm, traditional surrounding with spectacular ethic interior. It is covered with animal skin with some wood.
Africa Union Headquarters
My visit to the new Africa Union headquarters in Addis Ababa was historic as the building now wears a new look with much support from Chinese Government. Although where the building was a consecration camp where many people lost their lives. The same venue now hosts 54 African leaders at least thrice a year to discuss on many issues around Africa’s development. The people leaving around the area could tell how gloomy the place was. Slaves, prisoners were killed there in their numbers.
Also between Bole area and the Presidential Palace is an expanse of land that has trees planted by 53 heads of state since 1963. Each state within the African continent ensures that the trees continue to grow. The new country, South Sudan, is expected to plant its tree soon. It is an historic centre for Ethiopian and Africans in general
Burning of incense
This is an age-long tradition of the average Ethiopian and it is prevalent in most public places, markets, shops, restaurants, and traditional churches. They are often-times placed at the entrance to welcome visitors or guests. It has a spiritual undertone as so many of the visitors react to it anywhere they perceive the scent and it has become a ritual. The practices of burning incense can be traced to Judaism. Many Ethiopians believe that they have so much in common with the Israelites. They believe that Queen of Sheba had a child with King Solomon and thus the practice of Judaism seems to have to strong a hold on the people. It is oftentimes set up with coffee and popcorn for people to come around and have a feel of it and then take some coffee.a
